New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells delivers a devastating review of Guy Fieri’s American Kitchen & Bar. In a way, I wondered, Why bother? If Wells didn’t mention names, you’d think he were reviewing a T.G.I. Friday’s. (Fieri and Friday’s do have a history, it turns out.) In any event, the place sounds terrible. Then again, it’s located in Times Square. This reminded me of a conversation I had years ago with a manager at Bobby Flay’s Bar Americain in midtown Manhattan. He talked about the busloads of tourists dropped off nearby—they’d stream into the restaurant asking, “Where’s Bobby? Is Bobby in?” as if Flay were Mel Sharples at Mel’s Diner. Yesterday I posted my take on the review at weeklystandard.com.
UPDATE: Guy fights back! Or at least he says, like many new restaurants, this is a work in progress: