Michael Wolff’s “Table 13 or Bust” essay in British GQ has garnered much attention as readers hope to God he’s joking about the vital importance of the New York dining scene. He writes, “[T]o be honest, if someone takes me to, say, a grim little Japanese place for lunch, instead of a prestigious destination, I drop them.” How about guide them? Enlighten them? Show them there’s a better world out there? Perhaps the poor old soul has never sampled a crudo of cuttlefish? You can read the rest of my take at weeklystandard.com.