Don’t Get Saucy With Me, Béarnaise

Now here’s a sensitive subject: Do you eat your steak with sauce or without? Haven’t we gotten to a point where the beef is of such high prime quality that we shouldn’t need a sauce to cover it up (as was the case a century and more ago in France, where classic sauces were created for this purpose)? And yet even at the finest steakhouses in America, you will find a vast selection of condiments, such as yuzu-kosho butter, chimichurri, brandy-peppercorn, and three mustards. I get into the meat of the matter in this week’s Food section of the Washington Post.

As with almost all pieces, a variety of anecdotes did not make it in, so I will run some of them here in the coming weeks.

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